Just because it’s winter outside doesn’t mean you have to stick to red wine.

We blanched at a friend’s comment the other day, over what bottle to bring to an evening soiree. “Oh, no white,” she said. “It’s too cold.”

Bah. Our good friend Jean-Paul Schmitt in the southern Alsace would have something to say about this, especially as he’s usually about ear-deep in snow this time of year. The myriad layers of flavor in Alsatian Riesling are about as good as any down jacket, especially if you’ve paired it with something rib-sticking and deliciously Alsatian as a plate of choucroute.

This wine—our newest discovery from the gorgeous hills of Alsace—has the right amount of just about everything to please. There’s a touch of orange-honey viscosity on the tongue, the direct result of a gorgeous vineyard’s southern, full-sun exposure; but there’s also lots of spark and spice, a mineral energy that recollects the Mosel, that gives the wine lift and a grace that honestly we seldom see in Alsatian dry Riesling (especially at this very affordable price).

What’s more, Jean-Paul doesn’t do wine the easy way—he’s been certified organic for years, and for us, this dedication to quality was exactly what sealed the deal. The very clever Jean-Paul too has devised an equally clever slider on the back of each bottle, which tells you how sweet or dry the juice in the bottle is.

Our selection of “Rittersberg” (the knight’s mountain) is bone dry, with wonderful texture and a zippy finish. Just the thing to quench a thirst, be it snowing or sunny.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010