“Roncevie” is back. Our favorite Bourgogne Rouge from the Cote de Nuits and the bottle that every serious Burgundy lover should seek out, “Roncevie” is every vintage an over-achiever—and even more so in 2008.

We can say with confidence that the 2008 wines of Domaine Arlaud are some of the finest red Burgundies we tasted—here you'll find some of the most harmonious, most complex and certainly the easiest to love wines of the vintage. But as we've said times before, the secret of the domaine (and of the Cote de Nuits) is “Roncevie.” This extraordinary vineyard, with its many older vines, is basically a village Gevrey, as it is surrounded by vineyards that are designated as such—not to mention it sits a stone's throw away from grand cru Mazoyeres-Chambertin. It pays to know your vineyards in Burgundy, and “Ronceive” is one of those insider secrets that shows you that terroir does matter.

Winemaking talent, of course, matters too, and the Arlaud family has it in spades. This diligent, artisanal family (it’s all hands on deck chez Arlaud) has not only grown up among these Burgundian vines, but also for years has committed themselves to organic viticulture (as of 2009, all Arlaud wines are certified organic). The family—with brothers Cyprien and Roman in the cellar, sister Bertille and her trusty horse plowing the fields, and father Hervé supervising it all—are a tireless bunch, and tossed aside any grape or berry in 2008 that didn’t meet their exacting standards. We're talking more than 40% in some regions—which for many producers would be suicide—but at Arlaud they know what needs to be done. This is a vintage of concentrated berries, good freshness and definition in both aroma and on the palate.

As it does every vintage, “Roncevie” captures every delicious nuance of Pinot Noir and delivers it straight in a package that is anything but a “basic” Bourgogne Rouge. “Roncevie” is always one of our favorite value crus from this outstanding estate, and certainly one of the best deals you can find for Bourgogne Rouge anywhere.

Thursday, May 27, 2010