PRE-ARRIVAL: Wines due to arrive late 2010 / early 2011

What do you do when you get to the top?  You build another level and keep on flying.  The Arlauds in Morey-St.-Denis are some of the most respected and certainly one of the most talented winemaking families in Burgundy today—and they’ve achieved this through seriously hard work and a clear vision of quality.  For more than a decade we’ve watched this “dream team” mature and achieve levels of greatness that has perhaps even surprised them—but there’s no question that 2009 represents some of the finest Burgundies of their careers.  Fans of this estate know well to line up with no questions asked, but for those who have yet to discover the greatness that this estate is capable, run—do not walk—and make plenty of room in your cellar for their great, yet limited, 2009s.

The 2009 vintage is a year of beautifully sculpted red Burgundy, with aromatics that jump from the glass and linger; spicy, terroir-inspired finishes that don’t quit.  There is also a creamy, textured quality to these sumptuous wines—a silkiness on the palate that’s not about alcohol, or wood, or over-ripeness, but the result of 2009’s pure and perfectly ripe fruit—that is undeniably sensual.  For us, in 2009 everything seems to have been raised a level in both pleasure and persistence.  Our recent tastings in Morey-St.-Denis confirmed for us that these are wines that certainly will be delicious straight out of the gate, but because they are so well-made we can easily expect a lovely cellar life ahead.  

It’s an added bonus that not only do the Arlauds craft some of the most terroir-true, sublime Burgundy in the Cote d’Or, they also may be some of the nicest people to work with.  And with such talent under one roof it’s not terribly surprising that the family’s all smiles practically all of the time.  Cyprien Arlaud was well-taught by his father, Hervé—one of Morey-St.-Denis’ hardest working winemakers—pruning and harvesting side-by-side with him in the family fields. Roman Arlaud, Cyprien's talented younger brother, works full-time in the cellar with Cyprien—the combined talent and dynamism of these two men is immediately evident when you meet them.  Thoughtful, focused and well-aware that resting on one’s laurels is not an option, the Arlauds are their own toughest critics—even when we go into gleeful convulsions over each and every glorious vintage, the two quietly nod their heads and point out places for improvement.  And after years of preparation, the family domaine is now 100% organically certified—but for the Arlauds, 100% isn’t enough.  The family plows their many perfect vineyards by horse—cared for and “driven” by sister Bertille—rather than take the easier route by tractor.  

Purity, balance, concentration and pleasure—we can’t recommend the 2009 Arlaud Burgundies enough.  The only drawback of this vintage is that there’s a bit less wine to go around (a hailstorm cut down yields early in the year) which for a micro-estate such as Arlaud, means we can count the cases for some of our selections on one hand.  Very highly sought after, very limited.

Monday, August 02, 2010