Pigato is considered the “prince” of Ligurian white wines, a coastal grape that is spoken in the same breath as fine local cuisine and fresh seafood.  It should come as no surprise that food and wine go hand in hand along this breathtaking coastline, not far from the famed cliffs and wandering paths of Cinque Terre.  Yet the culinary draw of the Ligurian coast has overshadowed the vinous riches this coast produces, only because so few of its bottles make their way to us.  This juicy, aromatically rich Pigato is a lucky find, and hails from the region’s most respected producers.  Medium-bodied, very fresh and lively on the tongue, with a bitter almond touch and plenty of citrus energy, Pigato is the sea and the Mediterranean’s craggy coastline in one.  Here vines cling to ridiculously steep hillsides, absorbing the salty energy of the coastal winds and the mineral cut of the rugged soils—in many parts these terraced vineyards run straight to the sea.  To figure out what to pair with Pigato, you don’t need to think very hard considering its provenance!  We can’t get enough of this wine because it is so flexible at the table.  Grilled seafood is the obvious choice but its flavorful concentration can easily stand up to coconut-milk curries and especially garlic-rich sauces—fresh basil pesto being the Genoese favorite.  

Friday, July 23, 2010