With the towering Apennines Mountains lording over most of this region, one would think Abruzzo would be better suited for rock climbers than winemakers. Yet Abruzzo is a region, like its neighbors Le Marche and Emilia-Romagna to the north, which is rediscovering its wine roots and pushing for quality over quantity. The region is Italy’s fifth most productive wine region, and for years churned out bulk wine for blending. All this is changing, as local winemakers (some, like our partners at Nicodemi, are being led by a younger generation inspired by both technology and tradition) seek a higher status for local varietals Trebbiano and Montepulciano. The elements are all there: a dry climate that benefits from the influence of mountains and the sea, well-placed vineyards, and winemakers eager to erase the bulk mentality of the past. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines from the best producers can be ethereally light and fruity, with delicate aromatics and a clean flavor profile. Wines made with Montepulciano grapes (not to be confused with the town of Montepulciano in Tuscany) are generous and hearty, with loads of jammy, blackberry fruit.