“The wines that Philippe Delarche produce in conjunction with
American importers Peter Vezan and David Hinkle (labeled Reserve and bottled by hand without fining or filtering) are deeply and vividly flavored, packed with intense fruit.”—Andrew Jeffords, The New France
During a quiet moment in the Delarche family cellars, one would find it hard to tell Philippe and his son, Etienne, apart. Both would stand, thoughtfully, over a recently drawn sample of their prized Le Corton—vines Philippe planted when Etienne was born—and quietly nod with the patience and knowledge of artisans who have spent their whole lives living among the fruits of their labors.
So much of the joy of importing wine is the connections we make with winemaking families. For more than 20 years we’ve returned to this petite cellar in Pernand-Vergelesses, to enjoy the unmistakable terroir purity found in each wine and to pass time in the company of this caring, thoughtful family.
Sadly winemaker Philippe Delarche passed away in late 2008, following a long battle with cancer. His son Etienne, whom we’ve watched grow into an incredibly talented artisan, just like his father—has been working full-time at the domaine since his return from enology school in Beaune in 2005. The domaine’s recent vintages has been a revelation, the product of two talented men who have both grown up among their vineyards, and know each plot virtually by heart; while we will miss Philippe dearly, we are encouraged and excited about Etienne’s future in Pernand-Vergelesses.
The style of Delarche Burgundy, both red and white, is determined completely by terroir. All of their wines are mineral-rich in the most complex and tantalizing ways, with a luscious core of citrus-spiced fruit. Never superficial, the wines respect the soils that produced them and are slavishly true to them.
Delarche's red wines are an all-star roster of the Côte de Beaune: grand
crus Le Corton, Corton-Renardes, and the premier cru "Ile des
Vergelesses." Delarche whites are always a model of depth and purity.
They hail from such vineyards as Corton-Charlemagne and
Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru “Sous Frétille.” “Sous Frétille” is one of
the best parts of “Les Quartiers”; it has in recent years been awarded
premier cru status.
Another characteristic all Delarche wines share is their ability to age gracefully. This isn’t immediately obvious, as so many of his wines are rich and approachable upon release. Yet underneath those smiles lie delicious depths and mysteries just waiting to be discovered years—or even decades later.