The Durdilly family tends some of the highest plots in the general
Beaujolais appellation; we’re talking altitudes that would make most cru
plots cry. (Paul and Pierre Durdilly have split their family vineyards
into two new domains; each brother is now working with their own
family.) The alabaster-white, pure chalk soils of the village of Le
Chassagne remind us of Vosne-Romanee; they are very different than the
rest of Beaujolais and gives Gamay here a bit of Burgundian Pinot Noir
complexity. From what was an embarrassment of riches in the family
cellar, we personally selected a limited batch of very expressive,
fruit-forward, utterly creamy and spicy Gamay that we feel will dazzle
for years (seriously, years!) to come. Mostly old-vine fruit (many are
pushing 70 years old; the average is 40) is aged in a combination of
tank and very old, large foudre. Violets and roses and sappy, black
raspberry jam show on the nose; the mouth is bright, juicy and very,
very saturated—this wine goes on and on and does not quit.
2009 Beaujolais: The finest since 1947!
6.2.2010
 From the moment we hit the ground in Beaujolais we knew this was the big one. Sure, we’ve visited these caves for decades; we’ve tasted some extraordinary wines. But these wines were different. There were no furrowed brows, no thoughtful pauses as we tried to put what we were experiencing to words.
Have you ever seen serious professionals break down and dance a jig in a cellar? The 2009 vintage robbed us of speech and set our imaginations on fire. We could not believe how luscious the wines were—chock-full of creamy
fruit, each sip a pillow of crème fraiche and ripe, savory summer
berries, liquid and luscious and pure. Spoon-licking good. Forget the
guests at the table and finish the bottle yourself good.
We had never tasted Beaujolais so expressive, so
aromatically captivating, so down-right delicious. Say what you want
about the fickleness of taste, but we can hands-down guarantee that
Beaujolais in 2009 will be loved by just about everyone with a pulse and
an empty glass—pure pleasure has never been so easy to obtain.
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