Looking at the 1996 vintage; knowing when to say when
6.22.2010
/ By David Hinkle
During my recent travels to France (as well as a couple pleasant,
although rare, evenings at home) I’ve had a chance to explore some
bottles from the 1996 vintage in Burgundy. At the time many said that
this was a vintage that would age well; it was a warm year with healthy,
ripe fruit as well as high acids, one that could definitely hold great
promise if handled correctly.
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Finding 2007 Burgundy's place in history
12.10.2009
/ By David Hinkle
Vintage comparisons not only make for lively
arguments, but also help divine the future evolution of a young wine
before us. The 2007 vintage, being just released, was on
everyone's mind -- so we made a point during our tastings to open a
couple older bottles, with the intention of finding 2007's "historic"
place in the pantheon of Burgundy past.
The experience of tasting
again through a number of 2007s, however, was a revelation and almost
made me forget the topic at hand. It was as if the wines were just
bottled yesterday. I remembered sampling the same wines just after the
harvest, when the pure sensation of smelling and tasting fresh
raspberries was undeniable. The fresh-fruit, pure Pinot core of the
wines was still vibrant, but now a touch of spice was becoming evident,
too. They were, in a word, delicious.
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Chambolle's ying and yang
9.25.2009
/ By David Hinkle
I was recently in Boise for the annual harvest party, hosted by Boise
Co-Op wine guru and good friend Divit Cardoza. There was lots of great
wine and amazing local food, prepared by Divit and the 50-plus friends
who gathered under a perfectly clear sky that evening.
Two
bottles that I enjoyed comparing that evening were village Chambolles
from the 2001 vintage -- Anne Gros' Chambolle "La Combe d'Orveau" and
Michel Magnien's Chambolle "Les Fremières". Since we were celebrating
the natural order of things and cycles of the seasons, it seemed to me,
in a brief moment of philosophical contemplation (great barbecue will do
that) how complementary yet how different -- how yin and yang? -- these
two Chambolles were.
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2007 Raphet red Burgundy
12.10.2008
The 2007 vintage may be one of those benchmark years, in that what
we’ve tasted again and again has reminded us of why red Burgundy has
always been our touchstone for fine wine, and certainly why we first
started importing exemplary Burgundy more than 20 years ago. If you are
looking for Burgundy that looks black in the glass or flexes muscles
usually reserved for Australian Syrah, you will not find it here. These
wines drink effortlessly, truly deliciously today; and because of that
balance, will surprise many with their ability to cellar. This is a
situation we wish we could enjoy every vintage—basically a win-win year.
In the near-term, you’re dazzled by wine that drinks as if it just came
off the vine; in the medium to long-term, you can discover just how
exponentially exciting Raphet Burgundy is with a few years or more in
the bottle.
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