“Derrière la Roche”—behind the rock—is a special selection of winemaker Henri Le Roy’s top older Chardonnay vines, grown on clay-rich soils for an additional mineral, earthy kick, and aged in older Burgundy barrels. There’s something endlessly romantic and earthy about the perfume of this wine, and the soul of the Jura. It’s like the memory, perhaps after just an hour, of almonds sautéed in creamery butter, the aromas of which found their way into a warm library and mingled with sweet cigar smoke and leather-bound books. Unforgettable? You better believe it. Once you’ve been seduced by its perfumes you’re jolted alert by its bright, chiseled mouth of lime and lemon rinds, poached quince in syrup and kumquat jam—very sprightly, wonderfully balanced, and in the end one of the finest wines for the table you’ll find.
L’Aigle À Deux Têtes, Jura
2.25.2010
Extraordinarily character-rich but not at all heavy, “Derriere La Roche”
is crafted in the mold of the best Savoie or Muscadet—utterly unique
wines that have such a soulful connection to their place, you can’t help
but be enchanted and transported. We can’t think of a better
suited white for the table because it is so flexible, so profound and
zesty at once.
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