If you drive south toward Lyon, you'll find the next great region for Chardonnay, a land that was barely a pit stop for motorists on their way to the Côte d'Or some 20 years ago. Today, white Burgundy here borders on legendary—and is getting still better every year. The petit hamlet of Vergisson sits in the valley between two enormous limestone hills, and for us is the epicenter of fine winemaking in the region. Vergisson’s riches, as with all great wine regions, lie in its rocks. A visitor can’t miss the imposing “roche de Vergisson” and “roche de Solutré”—both rocky cliffs covered with vineyards that inject power and flinty fire into the Chardonnay grape. The region’s wines are on the whole explosively fresh, impressively flavorful, and could even be mistaken—for some, a heretical notion—for premier and grand cru wines of the Côte d'Or. Pouilly-Fuissé isn't just for picnics anymore; St.-Verán is now the appellation for white Burgundy lovers in the know. If Mâconnais Chardonnay isn’t your first choice for white Burgundy, make it so.