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Tuesday, August 19, 2008

2006 Boyer-Martenot white Burgundy

Manna from Meursault

“...the luxuriance of a good Meursault can make you think that if gold were a flavor, it would taste like Meursault. ”

It was quick work in the Boyer-Martenot cellars in 2006. What little wine this exclusive Meursault estate makes is always sublime, and it goes without saying that we selected everything we could.

Yves Boyer-Martenot's son, Vincent, has handily taken over winemaking duties for the family, and we've been completely impressed by this young artisan's talents. Having learned by his father's side in addition to studies in Beaune, Vincent has the touch of a seasoned veteran, a deep respect for tradition and a clear vision for the continued greatness of the family domaine.

During our tastings Vincent explained how much he enjoyed the concentration and vibrancy of his 2006 wines—this is certainly Meursault at its most supple and spicy, with plenty of flesh as well as plenty of minerality. We've always savored Boyer-Martenot white Burgundy for its terroir clarity—it's dazzling how the chalky energy of Meursault “Perrières” stands out, how the notes of hazelnuts are expressed in our selection of Meursault “Narvaux,” and how tantalizing is the mineral energy that powers through the voluptuous core of the family's Meursault “Charmes.”

Rich, savory and undeniably golden—our 2006 selections capture the best of white Burgundy from this impressive family estate. LIMITED!

2006 Boyer-Martenot Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Unique

You won't find a more noble Bourgogne Blanc—the family's older-vine vineyards sit directly next to village Meursault plots and share similar exposures and soils. Sweet and round on the palate, with notes of quince jam and honey. Energetic notes of chalk and flint run through a fresh finish; touches of smoke and fresh herbs give this “simple” blanc serious character. Outstanding quality/price ratio here.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Meursault “En L'Ormeau” Cuvée Unique

Luscious and diamond-lined, “L'Ormeau” contains older vines (some of which are 85 years old) that deliver concentrated yet elegant flavors. Citrus perfumes on the nose are complimented by white peaches, hints of butter and roasted nuts on the palate. A gorgeous cuvée that balances sweet white fruit with plenty of citrus and mineral verve.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Les Narvaux” Cuvée Unique

Characteristic aromas of hazelnuts and sun-warmed apricots show on the savory nose. A supple core of sweet stone fruits and honey is both sensuous and well-balanced by good acidity. Deliciously ripe and complex, with intermingling notes of warm nuts, smoke and peach compote.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Meursault “Les Tillets” Cuvée Unique

Vibrant and energetic on the tongue, “Tillets” offers a lively combination of butter and stony energy along with ripe stone fruits. The dazzling balance between sweet and savory here is electrifying all the way down through the very lengthy finish. A citrus salad on the both the nose and palate.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Puligny-Montrachet “Les Rucheaux” Cuvée Unique

A gorgeous Puligny both chiseled and supple, with crushed rocks, honey and wildflower notes in its perfume. A suggestion of red berries on the nose points to a wine of impressive concentration and complexity. The mid-palate is sweet and round, a compote of apricots and figs, finishing with more crushed rocks and lots of mineral energy. Silky and very enchanting.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er Cru “Charmes” Cuvée Unique

The family's vines sit in the upper part of this excellent premier cru vineyard—here the exposure is better and the soils thinner than further down slope, guaranteeing more complexity. The nose of “Charmes” is fresh and invigorating—a whiplash of white pepper and mojito-inspired citrus energy. Flavors are rich and voluptuous, with buttered peaches and honeyed quince. Yet it is the mineral energy of “Charmes” that wraps everything into one seamless, lively package.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er Cru “Genevrières”

Invigorating and inviting, “Genevrières” seduces with its up-front fruit and delicious spicy core. Dried flowers, chalk and herbal notes characterize the nose, while the mouth is rich and almost creamy, with notes of poached white fruits and apricots blended with savory nuts and a touch of citrus. A lovely balance of mineral zest and luscious fruit make “Genevrières” irresistible.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er Cru “Perrières” Cuvée Unique

If we could nominate a grand cru cuvée for Meursault, “Perrières” would be it. This wine has everything—stunning balance, supple fruit, gorgeous perfume and endless length. Crushed limes and stones mix on the nose, while notes of Meyer lemon, quince and honeyed white fruits show on the very juicy and complex mouth. Incredible finesse and grace in one gorgeous package.

2006 Boyer-Martenot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Le Cailleret”

The crème de la crème. Structured, mineral and stunningly complex. Immediately adjacent to "Le Montrachet," on the same band of soil, “Cailleret” is doubly enticing in 2006.

“...sappy aromas of ripe peach, pie crust and chlorophyll; smells like crushed grapes. The flavors of apple, pear, apricot and nuts fill the mouth. Finishes powerful and long.”

Also new this month…