Damien and Philippe Livera, in the "Clos Village" vineyard

Damien Livera is talking about hard work.

Work so hard that he clenches both his fists and flexes his arms above a barrel of his father's Côtes de Nuits-Villages, to show us how much “muscle” he's put into this cru. His father, Philippe, nods quietly, comme d'habitude—but he's smiling as well.

Damien, since finishing his studies in Beaune, has taken a more active role in the domaine, starting with the family's exemplary older-vine vineyards. Here everything is always done by hand—pruning, tilling and harvesting—but now the hands are four instead of just two.

What's extraordinary to note is that while Livera's dynamic Burgundies have always dazzled us with their purity and complexity, this new regime has raised quality to an entirely new level. The 2006 vintage in this modest (and ice-cold) cellar has been transformed from a great vintage to remarkable one; and in tasting the following selections, you'd be hard-pressed not to agree.

The Livera family makes “old world” Burgundy—earthy, pure and incredibly complex—and we select the cream of the crop for our own “Cuvée Unique” bottlings. Yes, it is hard work too choosing among so much perfect wine, but you certainly reap the rewards.