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Tuesday, October 7, 2008 Chono, ChileTop winemakers, world-class wines
Chono is a unique small-batch winery named after an extinct Chilean tribe, a hardy group of ancient people who braved the rough conditions of the rugged islands that make up Chile's southern tip. The incredibly talented team at Chono—our partners Alvaro Espinoza, Juan-Carlos Faúndez and Sergio Reyes—share a similar fighting spirit. Almost against all odds—we're talking in the face of decades of large-scale, mechanical viticulture in Chile—this group has determinedly carved out their own natural ecosystem for world-class wine.
A winery like Chono is rare in Chile—this small, family farm has always been tended carefully and naturally by hand. Alvaro Espinoza, today Chile's leading organic winemaker, cut his wine teeth at home and abroad, working for Chilean winery Carmen, Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux and Fetzer and Bonterra in California. During his time in the golden state, Espinoza worked with biodynamic expert Alan York, who opened his eyes not only to the possibilities of organic viticulture but also the ways such practices could be applied to the great terroirs of Chile. Juan-Carlos Faúndez, a very talented winemaker who also spent time at Carmen, teamed up with Alvaro early on, instructed and inspired by Alvaro's father, a leading enologist who instilled in both young winemakers a passion for hard work and for Chile's undeniable potential. Chono is the “dream team” of this group's collective winemaking talent.
The “San Lorenzo” is the star of the Chono lineup, a robust red blend that represents the pinnacle of winemaking in the Isla de Maipo, a riverbed region outside of the capital Santiago and in the shadows of the towering Andes. Espinoza's father originally planted the family's Carménère and Cabernet Sauvignon vines; Alvaro has since added Syrah to the mix. The combination of high-altitude conditions and cooling mountain influence means ripening here progresses as slow as molasses. This gradual, patient process results in wine with great concentration, serious character and flavors in perfect harmony—like slow-cooked ribs that after hours of gentle heat give butter-soft meat that slips right off the bone.
Alvaro Espinoza was one of the first winemakers to identify Carménère, a red varietal previously thought to be (and grown as) Merlot. It is actually a pre-phylloxera grape that was once grown widely in Bordeaux, but today thrives exclusively in Chile. Full-bodied and profoundly colored, Carménère is celebrated as Chile's signature grape, just as Pinot Noir is synonymous with red Burgundy. Chono's single-varietal bottling of Carménère somehow channels the spirit of Bordeaux, with its inky color and suggestions of pencil lead, espresso and warm earth—and is a serious delight to drink. The winery's Cabernet Sauvignon hails from a similar vineyard in the Maipo Valley, and needs little hype to announce its charms. This is a knock-out, sensual red that proves when Chilean wine is produced in artisanal quantities by dedicated producers, it has no peer—these are world-class wines that are still kind on the pocketbook.
Chono continues to push the envelope, searching for new terroirs or regions with great wine potential. Journalists have called winegrowing in the Bío Bío Valley “not for the faint-hearted,” but of course, that's exactly the type of situation that gets this pioneering trio excited. Chono has encouraged growers to plant Riesling in this cooler part of Chile, some 250 miles south of the capital of Santiago. Their Chono Riesling is a gorgeous white wine in a fruity, friendly style, with aromatics that remind of a New Zealand white but with the same racy intensity one would expect from a young, dry German Riesling.
Special case discounts available; please inquire 2005 Chono “San Lorenzo” Maipo Valley
“Complex aromas of red and dark berries, pipe tobacco and smoky minerals. Fleshy, gently sweet raspberry and cassis flavors are firmed by fine-grained tannins, picking up a bitter chocolate quality on the back end. Manages to be deep and lively at once, finishing with gentle bitterness and lingering red fruit notes. ” Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability. 2006 Chono Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley
“Redcurrant and cherry on the nose. Nervy red berry flavors become sweeter with air, taking a turn to black raspberry. Fleshy and tannin-free, with good finishing sweetness and cling. ” $11.95
2006 Chono Carménère Reserva Maipo Valley
“Youthfully backward aromas of cherry and dark berry skin, with a slow-building tobacco quality. Juicy cherry-vanilla and blueberry flavors are braced by zesty acidity and betray no rough edges. Finishes with seductive sweetness and a repeating vanilla note. This would be great with a strongly seasoned, grilled hunk of red meat. ” Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability. 2006 Chono Riesling Bío Bío Valley
“Pure and varietally precise scents of lime, orange, quinine, minerals and smoke. Racy citrus flavors show very good concentration and attractive spiciness. Finishes brisk and with a bitter note of lime zest. This is a superb value for energetic dry Riesling. ” Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability. 2006 Chono Syrah Elqui Valley
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A limited production, artisanal red blend from the Isla de Maipo, the heart of great red wine in Chile's capital winemaking region. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Syrah is harvested all by hand in multiple passes. The wine is fermented with natural yeasts and then aged in a combination of tank and barrel (80% sees French oak for 10 months). Midnight-deep in the glass, “San Lorenzo” shows great structure and grip, with liquid tannins and great complexity. From the Wine Spectator: "Juicy, with a nice core of black cherry, plum and sweet tobacco backed by a bright minerally note on the medium-weight finish."
From Wine & Spirits Magazine: "...this red is balanced in its ripe, red fruit (think strawberries) and darker mulberry and blackberry flavors. Medium-bodied and fresh, this wine will match a civet of hare."
The Maipo Valley is especially well-suited to full-bodied and balanced Cabernet Sauvignon, as the nearby Andes moderates hot days and keeps nights cool. The nose is a festival of black and red berries with touches of tobacco and warm earth; the mouth shows liquid tannins and plenty of luscious, ripe black fruits. Excellent structure and length. Aged 60% in barrel, the rest in tank. A stunning value.
Chile's signature grape and a unique sensory trip back to Bordeaux's historic, pre-phylloxera roots. Carménère is grown on the alluvial plains of the river Maipo, a high-altitude region in the shadow of the breathtaking Andes. Grapes are handpicked, and 60 percent of the wine is aged for 10 months in barrel. Lush and round on the palate, with plenty of baking spice and touches of tobacco in its perfume. Wonderfully supple and ripe; great mouthfeel.
A unique, refreshing and completely captivating Riesling from the Bio Bio Valley. Some 250 miles south of Santiago, this valley is lusher and wetter than Chile's semi-arid north. Red clay and loamy soils give Riesling a bit of body while retaining all its mineral zest. Grapes are handpicked and aged on fine lees, with 20% aged in barrel. Dry, fresh and dazzling on the palate—Germany and Austria, take note!
The combination of the sea and desert climate create an ideal setting for world-class Syrah, and that is exactly what winemaker Alvaro Espinoza has crafted. Concentrated and fruity, with a silkiness that runs from its abundant perfumes to its watch-breaking length, our selection is ripe, juicy and chock-full of blackberries and chocolate-dipped red berries. Spicy aromas of black pepper and tar show on the nose. The wine's freshness is dazzling, a nod to the region's cool climate and careful vinification that captures every bit of pure, unblemished fruit. Tannins are supple and sweet; every drop is polished and wonderfully complex. A stunning effort and a profound pleasure to drink. 
