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Sunday, January 1, 2006

Aglianico wines

The heart of southern Italy

As thirsty monks were still digging ditches for the future vineyards of the Cote d’Or, industrious Italians (and Greeks before them) had been making wine from Aglianico grapes for over 2,000 years.

It’s a stunning fact that tells volumes about this historic grape, and about its promise in the hands of modern winemakers. Aglianico truly knows its terroir—the ashy, abundantly fertile slopes of southern Italy’s dormant volcanoes—better than any other grape. It’s had ample time to find its roots, so to speak, in a region that is just rediscovering Aglianico’s power.

Few other red wines share Aglianico’s concentration and vibrancy, a nod to the volcanic soils on which its vines thrive. Higher levels of dry extract—the essence of flavor in a wine—means Aglianico packs more punch than even Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. With such a structure, today’s better Aglianico wines, such as Paternoster’s “Don Anselmo,” can be expected to age effortlessly for years, even decades. Similar to the noble Barolo in its earthyness and depth, Aglianico with age matures into an impressively complex wine that still retains its volcanic vigor yet gains a velvety layer of elegance and grace.

Our producers have expertly nurtured this historic grape and brought its cultivation into the 21st century, with better, more advanced techniques in the fields and in the cellar. Macarico vineyards, for example, are the densest in the region, with 10,000 plants per hectare. At 1,650 feet, vineyards at Paternoster dig deep into Mount Vulture’s ashy, volcanic soils, a terroir that imbues “Don Anselmo” with impeccable balance and incredible flavor.

An impressive history and a promising future notwithstanding, the fact is that Aglianico—especially from Paternoster, Macarico and Villa Carafa—begs to be discovered by those who are seeking robust, flavorful and completely unique red wines. The following wines are representative of some of the finest wines from Basilicata and Campania—wines too that you’ll find in our own personal cellars.

2003 Macarì Aglianico del Vulture

Full, sweet and ripe, with ample blackberries and deep, dark cherries. This Aglianico is approachable in its youth yet is still a powerhouse in its own right, pulling its strength straight from Barile’s volcanic soils in its sparkling mineral finish.

Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability.

2003 Macarico Aglianico del Vulture

The praise for this debut effort from Paternoster and Co. keeps pouring in! From the Wine Spectator: "Gorgeous blackberry and meat aromas and flavors. Full bodied, soft and juicy with toasted oak and loads of fruit, yet it’s polished and serious. Best after 2006."

“Deep ruby-red. Perfumed, vibrant aromas of black raspberry, licorice and game. Sweet and ripe; offers a rich, luscious, mouth-coating texture. Finishes with very silky tannins and a suggestion of chocolate-covered Bing cherry. The wine’s firm acidic spine will enable it to evolve in bottle for many years, and its telltale elegance is Vito Paternoster’s signature.” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar

Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability.

2000 Paternoster Aglianico del Vulture “Don Anselmo”

“A tribute to Vito Paternoster’s grandfather, this cuvée is raised in 50% old chestnut botti and 50% older barrels. One of Italy’s most powerful wines, with deep fruit, muscular tannins and plenty of spice. The 2000 is “extremely rich on the palate, leaving the mouth coated with gobs of red and black cherries and supple tannins. Absolutely seamless and wonderful wine.” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar

Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability.

2003 Paternoster Aglianico del Vulture “Rotondo”

A dramatically deep purple in the glass, the 2003 Rotondo is full-blown, lush, ripe and “round,” with black cherries and a spicy coat of powerful tannins. The 2003 vintage in the Vulture was outstanding, with the extra heat giving grapes added length and harmony at this high-altitude vineyard. Powerful and elegant, this is great Aglianico!

Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability.

2003 Villa Carafa Aglianico Sannio

Big, juicy blackberries and a handful of spice are found in this bountiful and rich Aglianico, with fine, robust tannins and a lengthy, energetic finish. Villa Carafa aged the 2003 partially in stainless steel to preserve all of the vintage’s ripe fruit, and partially in used barrique to add complexity and vigor to this knockout southern Italian red wine.

Call 1-800-266-6585 for availability.

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