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VintnersDomaine Jean Calot, Morgon
Jean Calot Calot's Morgon Beaujolais is birthed from 100-year old Gamay vines—short, gnarled fingers that form a goblet, as is the tradition in Beaujolais. These vines are as inefficient as Ferrari is an inefficient automobile maker, so to speak. The quality of the grapes far outweighs the precious little fruit produced.
The Calot Morgon Vieilles Vignes Cuvée Unique is our exclusive selection, raised in older grand cru Burgundy barrels. When we told Calot that his barrels for the 2001 vintage once held Bonnes-Mares and Charmes-Chambertin wines from Domaine Arlaud, he joked, "Will those ruin my wine?" Our barrels work to harmonize and help add a complex spiciness and layered texture to this old-vine Gamay cuvée.
Yet there is a bittersweet edge to Calot’s joviality. Recently while tasting with Calot in his cellars in Villié-Morgon, he casually mentioned to us that we may be his only customers who still want an old-vine cuvée aged in used Burgundy barrels. This fact made him sad. Calot is one of the winemakers who first gave us the idea to explore the full and historic potential of cru Beaujolais. Calot told us his French clients complain that our traditional cuvée makes them think too much, that it is too serious and not “gai” or merry like Beaujolais is supposed to be. For us and Calot this traditional elevage is the only way to achieve the full potential of cru Morgon.
One more gai note on monsieur Calot: he plays music to his wine while it ferments. Sometimes the vintage calls for Michael Jackson; sometimes an active fermentation requires classical music. Overall, Calot’s musical choice is a closely guarded professional secret.
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