Domaine de la Pousse d'Or
Volnay | Côte de Beaune | Burgundy
This historic estate is one of the Burgundian elite, in a similar realm of such exclusive wineries like Romanée-Conti and Comte de Vogüé, with its strict selection and seamless winemaking.
The history of Pousse d’Or in Volnay underscores its influence throughout the ages. In 1855, the winery was part of a larger domaine that included such names as Romanée-Conti and Clos de Tart. Originally called La Bousse d’Or (Bousse, in old French, means earth; thus, “golden earth”), the domaine changed owners a number of times until legend Gérard Potel took the reins.
It was Potel that put the estate’s wines on the map, with the elegant, refined style that Pousse d’Or is still known for today. In 1997, Patrick Landanger purchased the winery and its vineyards. In the mid-2000s, Landanger added an impressive collection of Côte de Nuits vineyards (from Domaine Moine-Hudelot) to his portfolio.
FARMING & WINEMAKING
Pousse d’Or has three premier cru monopoles, or exclusively estate-owned vineyards, in Volnay: ‘Clos de la Bousse d’Or,’ ‘Clos des Soixante (60)-Ouvrées’ and ‘Clos d’Audignac.’
Pousse’s attention to detail and dedication to sustainable viticulture is serious. For years the estate cared for its vines according to organic principles; since 2012, Pousse has incorporated biodynamic practices across all its holdings. As of 2018, the estate has been certified biodynamic per Demeter, a standards body.
Grapes as a rule are harvested and sorted by hand, and bunches are destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks. Wines are aged 18 months in French oak barrels, with between 30 to 50 percent new wood, depending on the cru. In recent vintages, Landanger has been experimenting with terracotta amphorae for aging some of his premier cru wines. Very little sulfur is added any any point during the winemaking process. All wines are bottled by gravity and are unfined and unfiltered following the lunar calendar.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Le Cailleret’
‘Cailleret’ offers a depth of flavor and minerality that reminds of its neighbor, Montrachet. Pousse’s plot is bordered by stone walls, and faces east/southeast. Hand-harvested. Pressed full cluster and fermented on indigenous yeasts in French barrel (50% new). Aged also in French barrel (50% new) for one year.
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Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Unquestionably one of the grandest white Burgundies, Chevalier-Montrachet sits just above Le Montrachet in the village of Puligny-Montrachet. Richly flavored, abundantly aromatic, infinitely long, and of course — very rare.
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Chambolle-Musigny
A classic, aromatic Chambolle, and an elegant, beautiful village wine that far outperforms its station, sourced from a handful of perfect plots (not to mention some declassified premier cru fruit).
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Santenay 1er Cru ‘Clos Tavannes’
‘Clos Tavannes’ is a walled vineyard, located on the border with Chassagne-Montrachet. Older vines, planted in 1920, were originally sourced from Romanée-Conti. Hand-harvested. Destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in French barrique (20% new) for 15 months. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Pommard 1er Cru ‘Jarollières’
Pousse’s vines sit at the top of the slope, along a stone wall; soils are clay-rich, which contributes to the wine’s supple mouthfeel. One-third of vines was planted in 1925; the rest in the 1970s and 1990s. Hand-harvested. Destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in French barrique (30% new) for 18 months. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos d’Audignac’ Monopole
This noble vineyard, facing north-east, is the domaine’s red carpet, leading to Pousse d’Or’s front door. Steeply sloped, the vineyard is rich in marl and clay; vines planted in 1966. Hand-harvested. Destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in French barrique (30% new) for 15 months. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos de la Bousse d’Or’ Monopole
This walled monopole vineyard is located next to the Volnay town hall. A quarter of vines was planted in 1958; the rest in the late 1960s and 1970s. Hand-harvested. Destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in French barrique (30% new) for 15 months. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos de la Bousse d’Or’ Monopole (Amphora-aged)
This special cuvee is sourced from the same monopole vineyard, yet was aged in terracotta amphorae for 15 months.
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Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos de 60 Ouvrees’ Monopole
An inner lieu-dit of ‘Caillerets,’ located on the border with Meursault, with soils rich in marl and limestone. Nearly half the vines was planted in the 1950s; the rest in the 1980s. Hand-harvested. Destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in French barrique (30% new) for 15 months. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos de 60 Ouvrees’ Monopole (Amphora-aged)
A glorious example of the punch and power of ’60 Ouvrees,’ aged entirely in terracotta amphorae. Here any oaky influence is replaced with even more velvety textures, more expressive aromas; try these two wines side by side to see how a winemaker’s decisions in the cellar can certainly influence the character of the final wine.
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Volnay 1er Cru ‘En Caillerets'
East-facing, ‘En Caillerets’ is ideally positioned; stony, rich in marl and limestone, the site’s high percentage of clay is also believed to contribute to the wine’s supple mouthfeel.
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Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘La Perrière'
A new addition to the estate’s Cotes de Nuits’ lineup, ‘Perrieres’ is a poised and perfect Pinot Noir, a vineyard located just downslope from the impeccable terroir of grand cru Mazis-Chambertin. Structure, brooding fruit, tons of freshness — it’s all here.
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Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Charmes'
A gorgeous premier cru with a lacy texture and penetrating Pinot fruit aromas. ‘Charmes’ in its youth delivers bright red fruits (strawberries and pomegranate) yet with age, picks up more sensual, earthy tones.
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Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Feusselottes'
The combination of this vineyard’s old-vine fruit and stony, mineral-rich terroir makes ‘Feusselottes’ not only a must-have but also an ideal wine for the cellar. A textbook Chambolle, marrying power and finesse.
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Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Groseilles'
A delicious berry salad on the nose and palate (“groseilles” are currants; it’s uncanny how the wine’s aromas reflect the vineyard’s name!) and plenty of silky texture and supple fruit.
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Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'Amoureuses'
One of Chambolle’s more silky, subtle wines. Always rich and silky, with a characteristic mineral edge that comes from its pure limestone soils. It’s also a grand cru in disguise; ‘Amoureuses’ is neighbors with grand cru Musigny.
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Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Charmes leans into its name like no other grand cru — here fruit is afire with a rubied glow, each sip is electrically charged and firecracker-fresh, the finish soothes and swaddles and leaves a smile on your face. Pousse’s biodynamic care takes Charmes and puts it on a whole new, heavenly level.
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Echezeaux Grand Cru
A selection of fruit from the very heart of Echezeaux, this grand cru is stacked and packed and endlessly enchanting. Made for the long haul, but so captivating with its earthy perfumes, its stony persistence.
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Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru
The estate’s single acre of vines was planted in 1956, 1986 and 1994, and faces east. Hand-harvested. Destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in French barrique (30% new) for 18 months. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru
An historic walled plot located above Corton-Bressandes, ‘Clos du Roi’ is full, broad and intense. Soils blend clay and limestone; vines were planted in 1979 and 1987. Hand-harvested. Destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in French barrique (30% new) for 18 months. Unfined and unfiltered.
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Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Expressive, complex, uncompromising. One of the grandest grand cru Burgundies, and one that requires patience — stash this in a cool cellar and be astounded.
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Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Estate vines total just under one-half acre, planted on “terres rouges,” iron-rich clay and limestone, on the Chambolle side of this historic grand cru vineyard. The vineyard draws its name from ancient sculptures that were found at the site, a trio of goddesses or “good fairies.”
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