Château de Pibarnon

Bandol | Provence

Plenty of wine lovers make the pilgrimage to Burgundy, Bordeaux or Piedmont for Barolo, at least once in their lives. Yet too many are missing a vinous destination that is truly like none other: Bandol.

The bold Mourvèdre grape is to Bandol as suave Pinot Noir is to Burgundy – that is, capable of feats of vinous brilliance and bottles that can last literally a lifetime. And crucially, our friends at Château de Pibarnon craft the finest, most expressive Mourvèdre-based wines in the world.

Indeed, when we talk of world-class wines, refined bottles that capture the essence of a place like a mirror, Pibarnon Bandol is at the very top of that list. Yet bizarrely, these wines have yet to catch on seriously with the wider world – even though a great bottle of Bandol Rouge remains a thrilling value for its quality and ageworthyness.

It’s why serious collectors (who are both savvy and keen on value) go big in Bandol. Like the wines of Barolo, Bandol at its best is eternal, growing ever more elegant and supple with time. And like fine Burgundy, the depth and complexity of the finest Bandol wines – whether red, white or even rosé — is a singular, captivating experience.

It doesn’t hurt that the Bandol appellation is smack-dab in the heart of southern France, either. And Pibarnon finds itself at the highest point in this small appellation, an oasis of cool winds and azure skies. Imagine, if you will, standing on this hilltop with the Mediterranean Sea at your back, the warm, ruddy earth under your feet and the breeze redolent of wild herbs, rosemary and thyme. Ahead of you is a sunny, miles-wide amphitheater of ancient vines, deeply green and healthy, rustling in the soft wind.

The sky is a stunning, cloudless blue, a shade lighter than the deeper azure of the sea behind you; indeed, this perch enjoys some 300 days of sunshine each year. You may need to pinch yourself. How can one place be so pristine, so perfectly suited to grape growing, so breathtakingly sublime?

We consider ourselves very lucky to have found Pibarnon early on, and equally thrilled to be witness to winemaker Eric de Saint-Victor’s meteoric rise (there simply isn’t a nicer guy in the world of wine). It was Eric’s parents who, in the late 1970s, discovered this property at a time when Bandol was barely a blip on most vinous radars – yet they toiled for decades to make Pibarnon the gem that it is today.

Pibarnon wines then were certainly good. Yet the bottles that Eric makes today are some of the best we’ve ever had – with a commitment to organic farming (the estate was certified in 2019) and a series of stunning vintages in which Mourvèdre has truly shined, the time to discover Pibarnon is now.

FARMING & WINEMAKING

Pibarnon sits at the highest point in the Bandol appellation (more than 900 feet above sea level) and occupies its own micro-climate. The influence of the Mediterranean to the south as well as the estate’s altitude keeps the southern temperatures moderate, allowing Mourvèdre the long growing season it requires to reach optimal ripeness.

The estate’s unique and rare soils, called Trias, are mineral-rich and retain water even in the driest years; sub-soils are a blue clay (found also at Château d’Yquem and Petrus) which contribute to the wines’ refined aromas and smooth texture.

The estate vineyards grow in a natural amphitheater, which not only protects vines from strong winds but also provides a dramatic backdrop for one of Bandol’s most legendary estates.

Vines are cared for according to organic principles; as of the 2019 vintage, the estate is officially certified. Harvest is always by hand, considering the steep, terraced terrain. Wines are fermented on indigenous yeasts and aged exclusively in a combination of new and older French oak casks and barrels.

WHITE WINES

Bandol Blanc

The pinnacle of Provençal whites. Soft and inviting, with flavors of apricots and white peach and a refreshing almond finish.

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ROSÉ WINES

Bandol Rosé

A full-bodied, blush wine that captures the licorice and berry intensity of Mourvèdre with a touch of silk from Cinsault. When you hear people talk of “serious” rosé, they’re talking about this wine — a full-bodied wine that reaches its peak with a year or two in bottle. Yes, great rosé can age!

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RED WINES

Bandol Rouge ‘Les Restanques de Pibarnon’

A selection of younger vines, organically raised on the same terroir as the estate’s Bandol Rouge. “Restanques” are the terraces where Mourvèdre vines grow in the estate’s natural amphitheater.

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Bandol Rouge

A complex, savory and rustic wine when young, Bandol with age mellows and evolves into something resembling finely woven silk.

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DISTILLATES

Vieux Marc de Bandol

Winemaker Eric de Saint-Victor’s parents, when they purchased Pibarnon so many decades ago, wanted to showcase the power of Mourvèdre not just in wine, but also in eau de vie. Thus began the family’s micro-production of a long-aged distillate crafted from the pomace of their Bandol Rouge wines, a rare and cherished Vieux Marc de Bandol. The “angel’s share” of this eau de vie is generous – the distillate is aged for 25 years in oak barrels in Pibarnon’s underground cellars until it reaches bottle strength, around 43% ABV. When it emerges from its slumber, this pale amber-colored and intensely aromatic potion is rich in peppery nuance, warm tobacco, and the earthy herbal garrigue that grows wild over so much of France’s southern coast.