Boom! Great Notes For 2014 & 2015 Beaujolais
Josh Raynolds of Vinous Media has published an impressive introspective on the past three vintages in Beaujolais — 2015, 2014 and 2013 –outstanding years that deliver impressive quality and flavor. In fact, we’ve never enjoyed Beaujolais as much as we have recently; our producers are firing on all cylinders, with wines both expressive and balanced, built for pleasure today and cellaring tomorrow. And Beaujolais is *still* a value play — if you live for QPR then the following wines are your bread and butter.
Clearly, 2015 stands out from the two preceding vintages for the sheer heft and power of the wines … That said, I’ve found most of the finished 2015s — as well as barrel samples I tasted during my trip to Beaujolais in June — to have more energy than the 2009s, as well as relatively firm structures. Yes, the wines are decidedly rich, but the best examples — and there are plenty — also have the requisite brightness and energy to ensure at least mid-term ageability.
Readers who enjoy Beaujolais need to stock up on the best 2014s for both immediate enjoyment as well as for cellaring. And there are many more of these top choices than usual in 2014. Stylistically the wines bear comparison to classically proportioned vintages such as 2010 and 2011, with abundant fresh fruit as well as depth and structure, all working smoothly together.
2015 Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais Le Perréon
Brilliant red. Spicy red fruit aromas show good clarity and pick up a hint of smokiness with air. Shows good energy and lift on entry and then turns deeper in the middle, offering bitter cherry and cassis flavors and a touch of licorice. Dusty tannins shape the finish, which lingers with good, gently sweet tenacity.
2014 Domaine Calot Morgon Cuvée Unique Vieilles Vignes
Brilliant ruby. Intense, mineral-accented black raspberry and floral scents are lifted by a smoky mineral quality. Juicy and expansive, offering gently sweet dark berry flavors that tighten up and become livelier and spicier with air. At once powerful and lithe, finishing with strong spicy thrust and silky even tannins that appear late. (Read more about Calot…)
2014 Domaine des Braves Régnié
Bright violet. Fresh dark berry, licorice and violet pastille aromas, along with hints of smoky minerals and succulent herbs. Appealingly sweet and penetrating, offering blackberry and boysenberry flavors that become spicier and livelier with air. Nicely concentrated yet lithe, finishing on a sappy, gently tannic note and with repeating blue fruit character and very good persistence. (Read more about Domaine des Braves…)
2014 Domaine Les Gryphées Moulin-à-Vent
Dark magenta. Smoke-tinged cherry and dark berry scents are complemented by suggestions of candied flowers and allspice. Smoky black raspberry and bitter flavors show very good depth and energy, and a mineral nuance emerges as the wine opens up. Sappy and appealingly sweet on the persistent finish, which is framed by supple, harmonious tannins. (Read more about Les Gryphées…)
2014 Paul Durdilly et Fils Beaujolais Rouge ‘Les Grandes Coasses’
Lurid ruby-red. Fresh raspberry, cherry and peppery spices on the fragrant nose. Juicy, focused and light on its feet, offering slightly jammy red fruit flavors that show a refreshingly bitter edge. Closes with gentle sweetness, an echo of candied red fruit and good, gently tannic grip. (Read more about Paul Durdilly…)