Vinous: Gerard Raphet is ‘Under the Radar’ Burgundy Talent
“Nothing gives me more pleasure than foraging for winemakers unknown to myself, or those that I have never visited. There are innumerable “under-the-radar” growers in Burgundy, and I use that term knowing that some oenophile’s radars are better than others.”
Gérard Raphet took off the running of the family Domaine back in 2002 and nowadays is assisted by his daughter Virginie. The Raphets farm around 12 hectares of vines mainly around Morey-Saint-Denis: an impressive portfolio … I absolutely loved the two latest vintages of Clos de Vougeot, so much so that I was compelled to mention Raphet here and make a vow to visit the domaine on my next visit to Burgundy.
And two of Martin’s favorite wines in a recent tasting:
2016 Domaine Gérard Raphet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a backward, almost broody bouquet with pure redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit laced with mineral. This is very well defined but it will clearly need 3 or 4 years. The palate is defined by its sweet core of tannins. What impresses the most is the precision and vivacity of this Clos de Vougeot. Hints of blood orange suffuse dense red fruit on the finish. Excellent. — Neal Martin
2014 Domaine Gérard Raphet Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
The 2014 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a bashful bouquet that demands coaxing, but develops nicely with aeration to offer briary and wild strawberry scents, a touch of iris and incense. The palate has good backbone, for what is a sturdy and assertive Clos de Vougeot with a Morey-like finish. Excellent. — Neal Martin